Residential · Hardwood decks

Hardwood Decks

Hardwood is the warm, classic deck, and it lives or dies on what is under it. We set the footings and frame to suit the board and the height before a single board goes down, because a deck that bounces or sags is a substructure problem, not a board problem. Merbau, spotted gum or blackbutt, the grade named on the quote, priced honestly by the m².

Photo: hardwood decks job
Scope

What this job includes.

  • Merbau, spotted gum and blackbutt decks, new and replacement
  • Footings concreted to depth and joists spaced for the board
  • Boards screwed or hidden-fixed at the right gap for drainage
  • Matching or extending an existing hardwood deck
  • Oiling or finishing, and old-deck removal itemised on the quote
Our system: Genuine merbau, spotted gum or blackbutt, the board and grade named on the quote, on concreted footings and correctly spaced joists, with the footings, bearers and posts warranted for 10 years.

What “hardwood” actually means on a quote

A vague “hardwood deck” is the easiest line for a cheap operator to hide behind. Merbau, spotted gum, blackbutt and ironbark all behave differently. They have different grades, different oils to maintain them, and different prices per linear metre. We name the species and the grade on every quote: not “hardwood”, but “Standard & Better merbau, 90 by 19 mm, square dressed”. That way the line on our quote is the same line on the supplier’s invoice, and a $390 per m² deck is comparable to a $470 per m² deck rather than guessed at.

Where hardwood quotes split

Two hardwood quotes for the same deck can be more than $5,000 apart. Usually the gap is hidden in the substructure rather than the board. Joists at 600 mm centres ride lighter than joists at 450 mm centres, but the boards bounce on 600s as the deck ages. Posts on saddle plates above grade outlast posts buried straight into the ground by a decade. Ledger boards flashed properly outlast ledgers bolted straight to the cladding by a lot longer than that. The cheap quote saves money by spreading the joists, skipping the flashing and using a shorter post. The price difference is real and visible on the quote, line by line.

What an itemised hardwood deck includes

  • The area in m², the species, the grade and the board profile, each named
  • The substructure: footing depth, post size, bearer and joist spacing called out
  • Ledger board and flashing where the deck meets the house
  • Balustrade to the NCC if the deck is over a metre up
  • Fixings (stainless or hot-dip galvanised, the grade named for coastal blocks)
  • Pre-oiling before laydown, and the first coat after install
  • A 10-year warranty on footings, bearers and posts, in writing

Anything we find on the day, like rot in an existing ledger or a footing the old deck never had, is quoted in writing before we proceed. Nothing moves the price without your say-so.

How we quote it

Priced by the m², itemised line by line.

The area in m² and the board and grade named, the footing depth and the bearer and joist spacing, the posts, the ledger flashing where the deck meets the house, the balustrade to the NCC, the stairs and any council approval. Not one round number for a deck.

The 7-line quote
  1. 1 Area in m², board and grade named. The price set by the m², with the board and its grade named: merbau or spotted gum, the composite brand, or H3 and H4 treated pine. Not one round number for "the deck".
  2. 2 The substructure, in full. The footing depth, the bearer and joist spacing, and the posts, sized for the height and the ground. This is the hidden frame that holds the deck up, and the line cowboys skip.
  3. 3 Ledger board and flashing to the house. Where the deck bolts to the house, the ledger board and its flashing, stated and detailed, because that join is what keeps water out of your wall.
  4. 4 Balustrade spec to the NCC. If the deck is over a metre up, the balustrade named to the NCC: timber, metal or glass, at least a metre high with gaps under 125 mm, so it passes rather than gets pulled up.
  5. 5 Stairs. Any stairs their own line: the rise, the run and the landing, built and balustraded to suit the height, not folded into a round number.
  6. 6 Council approval or CDC note. A plain note on which approval path the deck falls under, exempt, a Complying Development Certificate or a DA, so you know before we build, not after.
  7. 7 Warranty and finish. The 10-year footings, bearers and posts warranty in writing, the composite manufacturer warranty or the timber oil and coating, and how the finish is handled.
If a quote doesn’t show these lines, you can’t compare it, and you don’t know what’s been cut.
How it runs

What happens, step by step.

1

Site measure and set-out

We measure the space, check the ground, the falls and the height, talk through board and balustrade, mark the set-out, then put a written by-the-m² quote in your hands.

2

Footings and posts

We dig and concrete the footings to depth, sized for the height and the ground, and set the posts plumb. The footings cure before any load goes on them. This is the substructure that holds the deck up.

3

Bearers and joists

The bearers and joists go on at the correct spacing for the board, closer together for composite, so the deck stays flat and never bounces. The frame is the deck; the boards are the finish.

4

Ledger and flashing

Where the deck meets the house we fix and flash the ledger board properly, so the join carries the load and keeps water out of your wall instead of bolting straight on.

5

Boards down

The boards go down at the right gap for drainage, screwed or hidden-fixed to the joists, raked and trimmed clean. Merbau, treated pine or the named composite, exactly as quoted.

6

Balustrade, stairs, oil and handover

We build the balustrade to the NCC and the stairs to suit the height, oil or finish the timber, clear the site, walk you around, and hand over the warranty and any compliance paperwork in writing.

Insured, covered, guaranteed

The paperwork behind the price.

Public liability to $20M, and a 10-yr substructure warranty, all in writing, all on request.

Every deck is priced by the m², with the board and its grade named on the quote, the merbau or spotted gum, the composite brand, or H3 and H4 treated pine, and the substructure itemised: the footing depth, the bearer and joist spacing, the posts, and the ledger flashing where the deck meets the house. Any balustrade is built and named to the NCC. We hold a NSW Fair Trading building licence (000000C) and carry public liability insurance to $20M, and the guarantee is a 10-year written warranty on the footings, bearers and posts, the part that holds the deck up and the part cowboys skimp, plus the genuine composite manufacturer materials warranty where the boards are Trex, Modwood or Ekodeck. Deckline Decks is a composite reference site, so the licence number, ABN and contact details are illustrative placeholders, not a real operator; on a live build these are the real, verifiable credentials of the business.

The cover, the guarantee, and how to check each one.
Proof · recent work

Hardwood Decks jobs we’ve done.

The same Erina home before, with a tired faded twenty-year-old pine deck and a rotting timber rail Before
A finished merbau deck off the rear of an Erina weatherboard home, with a stainless cable balustrade After
Tired grey deck to new merbau with a cable balustrade, Erina. A rotting, bouncing timber deck on a sloping Erina block, replaced with a new merbau deck on engineered footings, with a stainless cable balustrade to the view.
The same Gosford home before, with a tired cracked concrete patio and weeds along the edge Before
A ground-level treated pine deck across the rear of a Gosford brick home, flush with the back door After
Cracked slab to flush ground-level deck, Gosford. A cracked rear slab on a Gosford brick home replaced with a flush ground-level treated-pine deck, running clean off the back door threshold with airflow at the edge.
Questions, answered

Hardwood Decks: common questions.

Merbau, spotted gum or blackbutt, which should I pick?
All three are great AU hardwoods and we name the one on your quote. Merbau is the popular, cost-effective choice with a rich red-brown colour; spotted gum is harder, lighter and very durable; blackbutt is pale, even-grained and bushfire-rated. We will match the board to your look, your budget and your exposure, and tell you how each one weathers near the coast.
How often does a hardwood deck need oiling?
On the Central Coast, every one to two years to keep the colour and shed water, sooner on a deck that cops full sun and salt. Left bare, hardwood silvers off to grey, which some people love and some do not. We will show you both and set you up with the right oil, and we can quote an ongoing re-oil if you would rather not do it yourself.
Will the boards cup, gap or splinter over time?
A little movement is normal in natural timber, but cupping and big gaps usually come from a board fixed wrong or a frame spaced too wide, not the timber itself. We lay boards with the correct gap for drainage and screw or hidden-fix them to properly spaced joists, which is most of the battle. The substructure we build is warranted, so the deck stays flat.
Can you match or extend my existing hardwood deck?
Usually yes. We match the board, the width and the finish as closely as the current timber range allows, and we will be straight if a new section weathers to a slightly different colour at first. Send a photo with your enquiry and we will get you a tighter number.
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✓ NSW Fair Trading Licensed✓ Genuine Composite (Trex / Modwood)✓ Licensed & insured✓ 187 five-star reviews✓ 10-yr substructure warranty
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