Residential · Elevated decks & balustrades

Elevated Decks & Balustrades

An elevated deck is where the substructure earns its keep. The higher the deck, the more load goes through the posts into the footings, so we engineer the footings and posts for the height and build the balustrade to the NCC, named on the quote so it passes rather than gets pulled up. Timber, metal or glass rail, decks off a high floor, a slope or a second storey, with the ledger flashed properly to the house.

Photo: elevated decks & balustrades job
Scope

What this job includes.

  • Decks a metre or more above the ground, engineered for the height
  • Deeper, engineered footings and properly sized posts and bearers
  • Balustrades to the NCC in timber, metal or frameless glass
  • Decks off a second storey or across a sloping block
  • Ledger flashed to the house, stairs built and balustraded to suit
Our system: Footings and posts engineered for the height, sometimes with an engineer's certificate, and a balustrade built to the NCC at least a metre high with gaps under 125 mm, with the footings, bearers and posts warranted for 10 years.

The moment a deck goes over a metre up, the rules change

A ground-level deck is a finish job. An elevated deck is a structure. Once any part of the deck surface is more than a metre above the ground, the NCC kicks in: at least a metre of balustrade, gaps under 125 mm, nothing climbable in the lower 865 mm, and the whole frame engineered for the height and the wind. We have walked away from “fix the rail” jobs where the rail was the only thing right about the deck. The substructure underneath drove the call, not the balustrade on top.

Where elevated deck quotes split

The visible part is the balustrade. The honest part is the substructure. A cheap quote runs a single bottom plate at the base of the post, a short footing just below grade, and a rail that is exactly a metre tall and no more. Our quote names the post size, the footing depth (set for the height, not a default), the bearer span and the bracing pattern, and the rail height with a 20 mm margin built in. That margin is the difference between a deck that passes a council inspection and one that does not.

What an itemised elevated deck includes

  • A structural drawing if the height or the wind load needs one (line item, not hidden)
  • Footing depth and concrete spec set for the post height
  • Galvanised post brackets above grade, never posts buried in soil
  • Bearer and joist spacing called out for the board
  • Stairs as their own line: rise, run, landing, balustraded to suit the height
  • Balustrade to the NCC, the material and the fixing brand named on the quote
  • A 10-year warranty on footings, bearers and posts, in writing
  • The council approval path (CDC, DA or exempt) confirmed before we quote

We will not build an elevated deck to a price that skips the engineer or shrinks the footings to suit the budget. If the height and the wind say it needs more than that, the quote says it too. That is the line your council inspector and your insurer will care about, long after the build.

How we quote it

Priced by the m², itemised line by line.

The area in m² and the board and grade named, the footing depth and the bearer and joist spacing, the posts, the ledger flashing where the deck meets the house, the balustrade to the NCC, the stairs and any council approval. Not one round number for a deck.

The 7-line quote
  1. 1 Area in m², board and grade named. The price set by the m², with the board and its grade named: merbau or spotted gum, the composite brand, or H3 and H4 treated pine. Not one round number for "the deck".
  2. 2 The substructure, in full. The footing depth, the bearer and joist spacing, and the posts, sized for the height and the ground. This is the hidden frame that holds the deck up, and the line cowboys skip.
  3. 3 Ledger board and flashing to the house. Where the deck bolts to the house, the ledger board and its flashing, stated and detailed, because that join is what keeps water out of your wall.
  4. 4 Balustrade spec to the NCC. If the deck is over a metre up, the balustrade named to the NCC: timber, metal or glass, at least a metre high with gaps under 125 mm, so it passes rather than gets pulled up.
  5. 5 Stairs. Any stairs their own line: the rise, the run and the landing, built and balustraded to suit the height, not folded into a round number.
  6. 6 Council approval or CDC note. A plain note on which approval path the deck falls under, exempt, a Complying Development Certificate or a DA, so you know before we build, not after.
  7. 7 Warranty and finish. The 10-year footings, bearers and posts warranty in writing, the composite manufacturer warranty or the timber oil and coating, and how the finish is handled.
If a quote doesn’t show these lines, you can’t compare it, and you don’t know what’s been cut.
How it runs

What happens, step by step.

1

Site measure and set-out

We measure the space, check the ground, the falls and the height, talk through board and balustrade, mark the set-out, then put a written by-the-m² quote in your hands.

2

Footings and posts

We dig and concrete the footings to depth, sized for the height and the ground, and set the posts plumb. The footings cure before any load goes on them. This is the substructure that holds the deck up.

3

Bearers and joists

The bearers and joists go on at the correct spacing for the board, closer together for composite, so the deck stays flat and never bounces. The frame is the deck; the boards are the finish.

4

Ledger and flashing

Where the deck meets the house we fix and flash the ledger board properly, so the join carries the load and keeps water out of your wall instead of bolting straight on.

5

Boards down

The boards go down at the right gap for drainage, screwed or hidden-fixed to the joists, raked and trimmed clean. Merbau, treated pine or the named composite, exactly as quoted.

6

Balustrade, stairs, oil and handover

We build the balustrade to the NCC and the stairs to suit the height, oil or finish the timber, clear the site, walk you around, and hand over the warranty and any compliance paperwork in writing.

Insured, covered, guaranteed

The paperwork behind the price.

Public liability to $20M, and a 10-yr substructure warranty, all in writing, all on request.

Every deck is priced by the m², with the board and its grade named on the quote, the merbau or spotted gum, the composite brand, or H3 and H4 treated pine, and the substructure itemised: the footing depth, the bearer and joist spacing, the posts, and the ledger flashing where the deck meets the house. Any balustrade is built and named to the NCC. We hold a NSW Fair Trading building licence (000000C) and carry public liability insurance to $20M, and the guarantee is a 10-year written warranty on the footings, bearers and posts, the part that holds the deck up and the part cowboys skimp, plus the genuine composite manufacturer materials warranty where the boards are Trex, Modwood or Ekodeck. Deckline Decks is a composite reference site, so the licence number, ABN and contact details are illustrative placeholders, not a real operator; on a live build these are the real, verifiable credentials of the business.

The cover, the guarantee, and how to check each one.
Questions, answered

Elevated Decks & Balustrades: common questions.

What balustrade does an elevated deck need?
Once the deck is over one metre above the ground, the NCC requires a balustrade at least a metre high, with gaps under 125 mm and nothing climbable in the danger zone, and higher decks have stricter rules again. We build balustrades in timber, metal or glass to that standard and name the spec on your quote, so it passes inspection rather than gets pulled up. Glass gives the view, metal and timber suit the look and the budget.
Do elevated decks need bigger footings and engineering?
Yes. The higher the deck, the more load goes through the posts into the footings, so an elevated deck needs deeper, engineered footings and properly sized posts and bearers, sometimes with an engineer's certificate. This is the part that must not be skimped, and it is exactly what our ten-year substructure warranty covers. We size it for the height and the ground, not by guess.
Can you build a deck off a second storey or over a slope?
Yes, that is core work for us on the Central Coast where blocks slope down to a view. We engineer the posts and footings for the height and the fall, flash the ledger properly where it bolts to the house, and build the balustrade and stairs to suit. We will assess the site and tell you up front how the height and slope affect the method and the price.
Glass, metal or timber balustrade, what is the cost difference?
Timber is the lowest cost and warmest look, metal (often powder-coated aluminium or steel) sits in the middle and lasts well near the coast, and frameless glass is the priciest but keeps the view wide open. All three comply when built right. We will price the options on your quote and be honest about the gap so you can choose on look and budget.
Get started

Get a free, itemised quote you can actually read.

Tell us what you need. We’ll book a walkthrough and send a quote with the work itemised, not just a number.

✓ NSW Fair Trading Licensed✓ Genuine Composite (Trex / Modwood)✓ Licensed & insured✓ 187 five-star reviews✓ 10-yr substructure warranty
Price my deck Call